Would modding a sensor bar plug work? | Video Games Discussion | Know Your Meme
What is the voltage and amperage on the sensor bar? wires for power, provided the connection will be established to the Wii some other way. My solution is the "Invisible" Wii Sensor Bar that works well from the couch, . I broke the connection in one power conductor so I could insert a meter drop, more than 33 ohms in our resistor or a slightly lower USB voltage. The voltage drop depends on the load (i.e. the WII sensor bar) beyond the resistor, that's why it I'd try ohms or so (you can add another 47 ohm in series if you have any more). .. Connection is fairly straightforward. 1.
how should I go about making a USB Wii sensor bar?
This means I can connect two for a left and right for the sensor bar in series for a forward voltage of 2. Now I just need to pick a bias resistor to limit the current.
I picked 80 mA as a good starting point and used an LED resistor calculator to determine the best resistor value for the application. I like to connect the bias resistor to the positive supply terminal to limit the short circuit current should any thing below the resistor accidentally short to ground. You could use almost any standard USB cable. If the cable is too short, you will simply need extra wire to reach the LED's.
Next strip and prep the far end of the cable for soldering. I recommend making the black and red wires 3 to 4 inches long and connecting the LED here. I added solid copper extension wires the green and yellow wires to my LED's so I could bend the wire to aim them and have the solid wire hold the bend. After installing the finished cable I believe extension wires did not provide any benefit and can be omitted. You need extra length on the red and black wire to provide room for the heat-shrink tubing to be moved way from the LED terminals when they are soldered.
Don't worry, you will know if you get this wrong. Just back up and repeat the soldering. Note that the yellow wire is connected to the LED has a flat edge on the side where the yellow wire connects. The flat marks the cathode or negative terminal of the LED. So you should connect the black wire to the flat side of the LED and connect the red wire to the other side where I have the green wire.
And then cover the wire with heat-shrink tubing. Next we will decide where to connect the second LED and the current limiting resistor. Now is a good time to shorten the cable to your desired length do leave a little extra though. I did not trim enough length from the cable and ended up need to take up the slack when I installed the finished project. Decide where you want to put the second LED and cut the cable.
Here I have tried to maintain the convention that the USB end of the cable is to the left side of the image and the LED end of the cable is to the the right side of the image. Note, I recommend stripping the cable so the wires are 3 inches or so and avoiding the extension wires that I used.
Next, twist the stripped end of the red wire incoming 5V from the USB port around the resistor lead as close to the resistor as possible. Then solder the wire and trim the excess resistor lead. Then trim and form the other lead of the resistor and add a piece of heat-shrink tubing. I like a hook on the trimmed lead to make it easier to physically attach the wire before soldering.
Now, strip the other cut-end of the cable attached to the first LED and solder the red wire to the remaining resistor lead and cover with heat-shrink.
Next, fold the cable back on itself and tape or zip-tie the cable together. The tape or zip-tie acts as a strain-relief to prevent stress on the solder joints. Here the black wire on the left connects to the USB ground.
This will connect to the LED flat cathode. The black wire on the right connects to the cathode of the LED we previously soldered.
FET Tricks: Build an "Invisible" Wii Sensor Bar for Your TV!
Again, I used solid-copper yellow and green extension wires to allow me to pose the LED but feel that there was little benefit. If you stripped enough cable, you can use your longer black wires to connect to the LED. Otherwise you will need to add extension wires. You should test your cable before adding additional heat-shrink over the bias resistor.
It will be easier to debug before the extra heat-shrink. The heat-shrink tubing added after testing will act as a strain-relief and protect your solder joints when installing or adjusting the cable.
Use a remote control that you know works for your TV perhaps! On my iPhone the rear facing camera is sensitive to the LED but the forward facing camera is not. Now use a cellphone or other wall mounted USB charger better to burn up your charger rather than your TV to power the cable and verify the LED's light up. Here is one of my installed LED's as seen by a small point-and-shoot digital camera. I wanted to measure the current to make sure I was below mA so I did more detailed testing.
I stripped the extension cable in the middle to allow me to access the power wires. I broke the connection in one power conductor so I could insert a meter and measure current flowing through the cable. Note that I split the ground wire rather than the 5 volt red wire because and accidental short of the black wire to the cable shield or ground would not cause a problem.
An accidental short of the red wire would short the 5 volts to ground and depend on internal protection of the USB port to limit the current. I measured 66 mA, well under our mA current limit. A short-circuit would have shown current higher than expected and an open circuit or reversed diode would have caused no current to flow. The current is lower than the The sensor bar takes around 68mA. The quickest way to do this was to 'design' a resistive divider: How I determined those values was mostly a guess process: I used my adjustable power supply and increased the voltage until the bar was the same brightness as what the Wii was providing, while looking through the mobile phone camera.
You can use ohms for both resistors and come up with a valid circuit as well, just a bit brighter. To make a non-destructive modification I've molded everything around the original connector. If you look inside the translucent connector below you will see two pins from a typical breadboard header.
In a pinch, you can also use needles or pins. They have to go inside the sensor bar connector and touch the walls. After the pins were set up to touch reliably on the contacts inside the connector, I sprayed the original connector with WD40 for better release, then I started putting layers of hot glue. I stopped from time to time to check that the connection is still ok.
Actually it took me longer to write this and to take pictures than the actual process, which was around 3 minutes for the hot-glue part and 5 minutes for everything else. The resistors were packed in red electrical tape, that's the bulge you see in the 1st and 3rd pictures.